Borgo Agna – Landing in Tuscany
23 years after my last trip to Italy I landed in Pisa shortly before midnight, spent a couple of hours resting at the airport, then walked the 1.5 km along silent, empty roads to the train station and took the 4:15 am train to Florence, then further to Arezzo. From here a bus goes up into the village of San Giustino Valdarno, embedded in the Apennine mountains of Tuscany. Another 1.5 km walk later the Agricampeggio Bogo Agna appeared – named after the little stream that passes right by, before merging with the Arno river a few kilometer downstream.
I chose this place because wild camping is not allowed in Italy and the idea of a campground connected to organic gardens from which guests can freely take healthy, natural foods grown in these mountains resonated as something to support. It’s the first time I am paying for shelter since 2 years, but it feels right. I had no idea for how long I would stay, or where to go from here. Only a work exchange in a Tuscan eco-village was lined up for weeks later.
I arrived at 9 am, took off my heavy trekking backpack and sat down in the grass. It is the day on which the Agricampeggio is opened for the season and there is no one here yet. I had no idea that this was the beginning of a deep-dive into a completely different type of community connected to conscious camping embedded in nature settings.
Cypress trees & good company
The same day a lovely couple in their 60s arrived from Germany in their camper. The 3 of us were the only people at the campeggio and we so much enjoyed each others company. I didn’t say ‘no’ to organic, Tuscan wine and cookies that were offered to me (Thank you!), and we talked all evening. Then the cold drove us into our shelters. Before getting into the tent I left for a short up-hill walk in the dark to get really warm. There is nothing worse than crawling into the sleeping bag feeling cold in a night during which the temperatures will likely go down to 0°C. Warmed up like this I felt cozy all night.
Immediately I discovered a great advantage of the Agricampeggio over wild camping – company. The German couple and I went for a lovely hike together which led us through a tiny, picturesque mountain village and past many cypress trees. These trees felt like friends. I knew them from Greece. They grow straight up into the sky, much like a candle. My Greek friend had explained to me 2 years earlier how cypresses are often found around graveyards in Greece because they are strong connectors between Earth and sky. I do feel that their presence throughout Tuscany does something with the land. Nature feels incredibly nourishing here. I soaked it all in. Three months and many adventures later I am still in touch with that German couple – a bond had formed in no time.
Organic work exchange
Somehow the rocks were rolling along a straight path. Within 3 days at Borgo Agna I met Stefan from South Tirol who also runs an Agricampeggio only a 20 min drive away. We talked, he asked me about my life and explained about his place. Within 20 minutes he offered that I stay in one of his cozy wooden huts in exchange for help with his organic herb and vegetable gardens. He would also pay for my food. Another 3 days later I was there – at Madonna di Pogi – and stayed for an entire month. It just so happened. And how enjoyable it was to plant lots of sage, lavender, rosemary, oregano and veggies based on organic permaculture principles. It was my first time working with ground that consisted of nothing but clay. Many frogs, insects and birds crossed my path every day, as would continuously during the many weeks to come in different locations of Tuscany. A young hare was playing next to my forest hut almost daily, and families of wild boar were running across the higher meadow of the campeggio after sunset.
Here I learned from other guests how agri-camping in Italy has become their way of travel. It feels, aligned, nourishing and restorative – in stark contrast to experiences with typical, often crowded, loud campsites. Agricampeggios are embedded in nature and often restrict the number of guests in such a way that everyone can have their own space, allowing for privacy and a sense of quietness. Of course there are also social spaces where people come together if and when they wish. Food is grown on-site and shared. I quite like this concept. It gives guests an experience of connectedness to local lands and ways of life.
Anghiari – An otherworldly town
From Madonna di Pogi I went straight to an eco-village in the Apennine mountains 6 km away from the historic town of Anghiari. What an experience. Anghiari looks like a town from a time long gone. Narrow cobblestone streets, old stone houses, churches and towers – all surrounded by a large wall. Legend says that a huge 1-day battle took place here in 1440 between > 8000 Milan and Florentine troops, during which only 1 person was killed. It remains a mystery.
Eco-village life
I had found the eco-village on the Workaway platform for all types of (mainly) non-monetary host-volunteer exchanges. My job would be to help with natural cob building and organic gardening. A small family who owns a house here was hosting me and sharing their food with me. Never having been part of such a place, and curious about conscious community, I was eager to see how it all works. It was a wild ride.
The community is situated in a beautiful forest, half way up a hill. The views over the valley with Anghiari in the distance were mesmerising. Waking up to such beauty every day was a delight. I also quickly saw the depth of skill held by the people living in the originally Etruscan village (3 generations) which had been re-settled about 25 years ago. Wood work of all types, stone work, professional building of highly efficient fire places, organic tea-making and lots of food-growing. A travelling young stone mason visited while I was here and I had to pleasure to work with him for 2 days. He explained that almost every town or even village has a ‘Stube’ (traditional German word for craftsman’s room) in this region of Tuscany. High-quality crafts are a big focus here.
Travelling craftsmen
The young stone mason is a German Wandergeselle. It is an old European apprenticeship tradition to learn a trade and then travel from place to place offering the skill, usually in exchange for food and a place to stay while working under a local master. This tradition still exists today. It involves 3 years of travel under quite specific conditions. Only hitch-hiking or walking are allowed for travel. When I met the stone mason he was wearing his full black guild uniform. Once more a snapshot into another time, still alive in some way. Tuscany is a region of layers of tradition and history, fitting in well with German craftsmanship.
Conscious community
The tricky part in this place was the aspect of community. Over the last 25 to 30 years experimentation with different community structures has been a continuous, often challenging journey which took the villagers from all-day togetherness, sharing most meals and a single car to commute between the village, Anghiari and San Sepulcro, to the current structure of a couple of shared spaces where people can show up on an entirely voluntary basis. Sadly a lot that has been tried in the past did not work out. Nowadays the village entrance is full of cars, different families each have there own tools (although there is some sharing), and shared meals happen once per month.
During my short (2.5-week) stay I experienced the villagers as mostly distant. Although child care was shared between the 3 young families of the village, as an outsider I had a hard time connecting with the local people, and also sensed a distantness between most of the villagers. Communication with the family that was hosting me was so difficult, or rather non-existent as soon as some tension arose, that one day I just packed my bag and quietly disappeared early the next morning – weeks before I had thought I would leave. This is something I had never done before. Yet it felt like a huge relief and everything fell into place effortlessly as soon as I had made this decision and move. My rather sad conclusion was that I have experienced a much stronger sense of community in places and projects which do not call themselves community, or conscious community… This is not meant to be a general judgment of conscious communities though. I am sure there are other, different examples.
Cortona – Between Etruscan, Roman and today’s worlds
The same day I left the eco-village I found myself carrying my 25+ kg luggage up the steep hill on which Cortona has been built, and re-built, who knows when. Even though it was hot and I was struggling with the climb my whole being opened more with every step. I knew that I had to walk the 3 km from Camucia’s train station rather than taking the bus to Cortona’s main piazza. Even though I knew nothing about Cortona it was very clear that this place had to be approached in a particular way. Later I realised why.
Ocello San Marco is close to the top of the hill – an old, authentic stone building which has only recently been opened as a hostel. I intended to stay for 3 days, but ended up leaving after > 2 weeks. What are these frequencies here, I wondered. I felt more nourished than anywhere else in a long time. I quickly found out that Cortona is packed with churches and multiple monasteries – all very close together – and there are more within a 3 to 4 km radius around the village. Most of these places feel light – what a contrast to what I often feel in religious buildings elsewhere. Every day I spent some time sitting in different churches or monasteries, silently, hanging out with myself. There were powerful moments of sudden, strong connectedness with other places, and even visions about the unfolding of events.
The Etruscan civilisation
As I was walking up the hill to Cortona at one point I got lost despite my nicely drawn map (I don’t have a phone to find the way). “Accidentally” I found myself next to Tanella di Pitagora – a small Etruscan tomb surrounded by cypress trees and olive groves. The place felt so good! At the time I had no idea what it was. I hung out for a while, re-oriented and then continued my journey to the Ostello. A few days later, after finding out what I had stumbled upon I came back. This was the beginning of a dive into Etruscan frequencies. Etruria are the lands of the Etruscan people which match almost exactly the location of today’s Tuscany.
Cortona is home of the Academia Etrusca and the Etruscan museum which is part of the academy. I also learned that there are more tombs in the immediate vicinity of Cortona – 2 right next to each other in Sodo, and one in Camucia. I visited all these sites, meditated, read the informative signs that were posted for visitors. The journey through the museum took hours and I still look regularly at the photographs I took – gateways to another time when this planet and its human and non-human societies looked very differently from todays. Everything feels so alive. Ancient currents of energy and light seemed to become stronger by the day. It felt so good that I was wondering if I would ever manage to leave this place. I sensed old Etruscan memories written into the land and rocks flooding through Roman monuments and religious buildings, connecting the latter to very positive forms of spirituality.
Exclusiveness & interference
Yet there was sadness too when I was standing in empty tombs stripped of their treasures and sentience. Some of the treasures found here are now exhibited in the Etruscan museum, others were moved elsewhere, or vanished entirely. The tomb in Camucia – Tumulo di Camucio – is closed to visitors since years and still radiates ancient aliveness, but the 2 Tumuli di Sodo felt dead to me. Images of the plundering of ancient sites arose connected to Etruscan and Egyptian sites. Interestingly part of the Etruscan museum hosts Egyptian exhibits which feel strangely out of context. The museum itself is involved with a project of creating stories around Etruscan history and life conveyed through Donald Duck and other Disney figures. I was appalled by this combination of the ancient, sacred, and the highly manipulative and controlled. A profound clash of the living and the synthetic.
The museum’s entrance fees seem high at 10 Euro/person, not including the tombs. How many families can afford this? Why is access to our human past locked away behind financial walls? Today’s Cortona is marked by sheer beauty, an abundance of exquisite foods and wines, women who sell hand-crafted jewelry at market stalls wearing flower rims in their hair. Many locals dress in traditional, beautiful robes during festivities and market events. Yet to many visitors most of what is sold is unaffordable. The Ostello San Marco is the only affordable place to stay that I am aware of. I loved it there, and happened to stay at a time when tourism was low which meant that I had the large, cozy 6-bed dorm all to myself for 2 weeks. Pigeons joined me on the window sill. Flocks of swallows kept flying in circles around the small church right opposite – who knows why.
To be continued…
I love Tuscany but not 35°C. Hence the journey took me to the Italian Alps for a few weeks of change in scenery: lovely mountain bikers diving into alpine natures mixed with Gucci, Armani, exclusive hotels and perfumeries. More soon about my wild camping trip in these high mountains. In late July I will return to Tuscany to explore more places and projects. Likely, there will be much to share.
Lots of love and thank you for reading, and engaging with Sun Beings,
Carina
Photography: All pictures were taken by Carina Ramm.
9 thoughts on “Tuscany – Many versions of Nature”
Ahh, tonight I have enjoyed catching up with your news… I always appreciate reading about your adventures Carina. Thank you for sharing. There is much diversity in your blogs… I love your photographs and felt heartwarmed to read about your organic work exchange opportunity. xx
Thank you so much Leanda! A lot is unfolding at what feels like record speed on so many levels and in very physical ways. Hence the diversity of posts 🙂 I am so happy that our sharings are appreciated. Lot’s of love to you.
It is a deLIGHT to read your adventures, thank you for sharing Carina.
Thank you so much for the wonderful feedback Nicole!
So beautiful! I love Tuscany! I lived in Florence for a year and a half in the early 80’s in my early 20’s. I still refer to that as the best year and a half ever. There is an amazing energy and beauty there. Your travels are to amazing areas I feel I would love to explore. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Linda! There is something about Tuscany that is very special. I am not surprised you had a great time there. Thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you Carina for such a beautiful blog on your adventures. I loved that you write so honestly and share lots of details as well as some very interesting photos. I didn’t want it to end ! I’m very much looking forward to hearing about your next adventures .🌞🙏
Thank you so much Lisa!
I’d love you to write a book about your life 🌞